No. SI1 (2025): Special Issue
Essays

Analyzing Sustainability in Fashion Through Bio-Synthetic Materials

Pdf
  • Filiz Ozbengi Uslu,
  • Dr. Arzu Vuruskan
Filiz Ozbengi Uslu
Izmir University of Economics
Dr. Arzu Vuruskan
Izmir University of Economics
Bio
DOI: https://doi.org/10.36253/fh-3156

Published 14-07-2025

Keywords

  • Sustainability in fashion,
  • Planetary well-being,
  • Bio-synthetic materials;,
  • Living factories,
  • Ethical practices

How to Cite

Ozbengi Uslu, F., & Vuruskan, A. (2025). Analyzing Sustainability in Fashion Through Bio-Synthetic Materials. Fashion Highlight, (SI1), 488–500. https://doi.org/10.36253/fh-3156

Copyright (c) 2025 Filiz Ozbengi Uslu, Dr. Arzu Vuruskan

Creative Commons License

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

Abstract

The environmental consequences of the fashion industry are undeniably severe and contribute to environmental pollution and degradation in many ways. While sustainability discussions are continuing, new material trends are emerging and the source, production process, and experience of these materials also affect the fashion industry. Synthetic biology is a promising tool combining bio-design and bioengineering. This new bio-synthetic approach offers an innovative path toward ethical and clean fashion production by transforming microbes or bacteria into “living factories” that produce sustainable materials. However, a broader evaluation is required to grasp the full potential and ethical challenges, especially regarding the commodification of living organisms for mass production. It is imperative that research be conducted to assess the environmental, social, and economic impacts of bio-synthetic materials, particularly in the context of the “living factories” concept. Considering the ethical risks of exploitative practices and the need for transparency, this study examines bio-synthetic applications in fashion, their impacts on sustainability, and their implications for planetary well-being.

Pdf

References

  1. Antonelli, P. (Ed.). (2020). Neri Oxman: Material ecology. The Museum of Modern Art.
  2. Ayyanar, I., Ravindran, A., Rajendran, R., Arulprakasam, A., & Vellaisamy, B. (2023). Algae materials for textile industries. In Algae Materials (pp. 231-246). Academic Press.
  3. Baars, J. J., Mishra, P., Hendrickx, P., van der Horst, C., & van Peer, A. (2024). Development of a circular sustainable culturing process for natural leather-like materials based on fungal mycelium (No. WPR-2024-04). Wageningen Plant Research.
  4. Badhoutiya, A., Darokar, H., Verma, R., Saraswat, M., Devaraj, S., Raj, V., & Abdulhussain, Z. (2023). Regenerative Manufacturing: Crafting a Sustainable Future through Design and Production. E3S Web of Conferences. https://doi.org/10.1051/e3sconf/202345301038.
  5. ​​Biofabricate, & Fashion for Good. (2020). Understanding ‘Bio’ material innovation: A primer for the fashion industry. Retrieved November 16, 2024, from https://fashionforgood.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/Understanding-Bio-Material-Innovations-Report.pdf
  6. Boissonneault, T. (2024). OXMAN’s latest project is 100% biodegradable 3D-printed shoes. Voxel Matters. Retrieved November 18, 2024, from https://www.voxelmatters.com/oxmans-latest-project-is-100-biodegradable-3d-printed-shoes/
  7. Breslauer, D. N. (2024). Current Progress on Scale‐Up and Commercialization of Microbially‐Produced Silk. Advanced Functional Materials, 2408386.
  8. Bringle, J. (2024). Modern Meadow moves to commercial scale with Bio-Vera alt-leather. Sourcing Journal. Retrieved November 17, 2024, from https://sourcingjournal.com/sustainability/sustainability-materials/modern-meadow-commercial-scale-bio-vera-alt-leather-material-innovation-529116/
  9. Calvert, J. (2010). Synthetic Biology: Constructing Nature? The Sociological Review, 58(1_suppl), 95-112. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-954X.2010.01913.x
  10. Chow, A. (2022). Junya Watanabe MAN and The North Face present “The Earth” hoodie. Hypebeast. Retrieved November 21, 2024, from https://hypebeast.com/2022/10/eye-junya-watanabe-man-the-north-face-the-earth-hoodie-release-info
  11. Collet, C. (2021). Designing our future bio-materiality. AI & SOCIETY, 36(4), 1331-1342. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00146-020-01013-y
  12. Collet, C. Designing our future bio-materiality. AI & Soc 36, 1331–1342 (2021). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00146-020-01013-y
  13. Collet, Carole (2018) Biotextiles: Evolving Textile Design Practices for the Bioeconomy and the Emerging Organism Industry. In: Soft Landing. Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture, Helsinki, Finland, pp. 87-99. ISBN 978-952-60-0083-1
  14. D’Olivo, P., & Karana, E. (2021). Materials framing: a case study of biodesign companies’ web communications. She Ji: The Journal of Design, Economics, and Innovation, 7(3), 403-434.
  15. Dade-Robertson, M., & Zhang, M. (2024). Theory and design in the biotechnical age: A schematic understanding of Bio Design and Synthetic Biology practice. The Design Journal, 27(5), 800–822. https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2024.2381914
  16. Daukantienė V. Analysis of the sustainability aspects of fashion: A literature review. Textile Research Journal. 2023;93(3-4):991-1002. doi:10.1177/00405175221124971
  17. David Lips; Practical considerations for delivering on the sustainability promise of fermentation-based biomanufacturing. Emerg Top Life Sci 12 November 2021; 5 (5): 711–715. doi: https://doi.org/10.1042/ETLS20210129
  18. Eisenstein, M. Living factories of the future. Nature 531, 401–403 (2016). https://doi.org/10.1038/531401a
  19. Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (2017). A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future. Retrieved November 14, 2024, from https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/publications/a-new-textiles-economy-redesigning-fashions-future
  20. ETC/CE Report. (2023). The role of bio-based textile fibres in a circular and sustainable textiles system. Retrieved November 15, 2023, from https://www.eionet.europa.eu/etcs/etc-ce/products/etc-ce-report-2023-5-the-role-of-bio-based-textile-fibres-in-a-circular-and-sustainable-textiles-system
  21. European Commission. (2005). Synthetic biology: Applying engineering to biology. Report of a NEST High-Level Expert Group (EUR 21796). Luxembourg: Office for Official Publications of the European Communities. https://doi.org/ISBN-92-894-9742-4
  22. Fashion for Good and the Boston Consulting Group (2020) Financing the Transformation: Fashion for Good. [Online]. Available at: https://fashionforgood.com/wp- content/uploads/2020/01/FinancingTheTransformation_Report_FINAL_Digital- 1.pdf
  23. Ferreira, P., Apolinário, A. & Forman, G. Optimising Textile Biomaterial Selection for Sustainable Product and Circular Design: Practical Guidelines for a Greener Future. Mater Circ Econ 5, 14 (2023). https://doi.org/10.1007/s42824-023-00086-6
  24. Fish, K. (2013). Living factories: Biotechnology and the unique nature of capitalism. McGill-Queen's University Press.
  25. Frow, E., and J. Calvert. 2013. “Can Simple Biological Systems Be Built from Standardized Interchangeable Parts ?’ Negotiating Biology and Engineering in a Synthetic Biology Competition.” Engineering Studies 5 (1): 42–58. https://doi.org/10.1080/19378629.2013.764881.
  26. Gallup, O., Ming, H., & Ellis, T. (2021). Ten future challenges for synthetic biology. Engineering Biology, 5(3), 51-59.
  27. Girard, D., Chaussé, J., & Vermette, P. (2024). Bacterial cellulose: A comprehensive review. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 141(15), e55163. https://doi.org/10.1002/app.55163
  28. Goldwin. (2023). News: Launch of innovative apparel products. Retrieved November 16, 2024, from https://about.goldwin.co.jp/eng/news/page-10539
  29. Harrell, A. (2024). Material World: Oxman marries biomaterials and tech, drops biodegradable O° shoes. Sourcing Journal. Retrieved November 18, 2024, from https://sourcingjournal.com/sustainability/sustainability-materials/material-world-innovation-biomaterials-carbios-textile-waste-oxman-modern-meadow-1234722050/
  30. Harrell, A. (2024). Modern Meadow goes all in on biomaterials. Sourcing Journal. Retrieved November 21, 2024, from https://sourcingjournal.com/sustainability/sustainability-materials/modern-meadow-puts-everything-into-biomaterials-bio-vera-david-williamson-bio-alloy-513207/
  31. Hibberd, M. (2019). Key challenges for the fashion industry in tackling climate change. Studies in Communication Sciences, 18(2), 383–397. https://doi.org/10.24434/j.scoms.2018.02.012
  32. In-na, P., Lee, J., & Caldwell, G. (2022). Living textile biocomposites deliver enhanced carbon dioxide capture. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 51(4_suppl), 5683S–5707S. https://doi.org/10.1177/15280837211025725
  33. IndieBio. (n.d.). Pneuma. Retrieved November 18, 2024, from https://indiebio.co/company/pneuma/
  34. Infinium Global Research. (2020). Vegan Leather Market (Product - Polyurethane, Recycled Polyester, and Bio Based; Application - Furnishing, Automotive, Footwear, Bags & Wallets, Clothing, and Other Applications): Global Industry Analysis, Trends, Size, Share and Forecasts to 2026
  35. Jacometti, V. (2019) Circular economy and waste in the fashion industry. Laws, Vol. 8(4), pp. 4-27 [Online]. Available at https://doi.org/10.3390/laws8040027
  36. Jhanji, Y. (2022). Mushroom and corn fibre the green alternatives to unsustainable raw materials. Sustainable Fibres for Fashion and Textile Manufacturing, 129.
  37. Katyal, M., Singh, R., Mahajan, R., Sharma, A., Gupta, R., Aggarwal, N. K., & Yadav, A. (2023). Bacterial cellulose: Nature's greener tool for industries. Biotechnology and Applied Biochemistry, 70(5), 1629-1640.
  38. La Rosa, A. D., & Grammatikos, S. A. (2019). Comparative Life Cycle Assessment of Cotton and Other Natural Fibers for Textile Applications. Fibers, 7(12), 101. https://doi.org/10.3390/fib7120101
  39. Madhu, A., & Chakraborty, J. N. (2017). Developments in application of enzymes for textile processing. Journal of cleaner production, 145, 114-133.
  40. Marston, J. (2022). Modern Synthesis raises $4.1m from AgFunder, others to grow textiles from microbes. AgFunder News. Retrieved November 11, 2024, from https://agfundernews.com/modern-synthesis-raises-4-1m-to-grow-fashion-textiles-from-microbes
  41. McNeill, L., & Venter, B. (2019). Identity, self‐concept and young women’s engagement with collaborative, sustainable fashion consumption models. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 43(4), 368–378. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12516
  42. Moazzem, S., Crossin, E., Daver, F., Wang, L. Environmental impact of apparel supply chain and textile products. Environ Dev Sustain 24, 9757–9775 (2022). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10668-021-01873-4
  43. Modern Synthesis. (n.d.). Technology. Retrieved November 11, 2024, from https://www.modernsynthesis.com/#tech
  44. Morgan, S. (2023). Microbial weaving produces textiles. Institute of Materials, Minerals and Mining (IOM3). Retrieved November 12, 2024, from https://www.iom3.org/resource/microbial-weaving-produces-textiles.html
  45. Nabanita Saha, Fahanwi Asabuwa Ngwabebhoh, Hau Trung Nguyen, Petr Saha; Environmentally friendly and animal free leather: Fabrication and characterization. AIP Conf. Proc. 26 November 2020; 2289 (1): 020049. https://doi.org/10.1063/5.0028467
  46. Nayak, R., Cleveland, D., Tran, G., & Joseph, F. (2024). Potential of bacterial cellulose for sustainable fashion and textile applications: A review. Journal of Materials Science, 1-26.
  47. Newsfile Corp. (2024). Biotech pioneer debuts collaborations with renowned architecture & design firms to incorporate living & breathing materials. Yahoo Finance. Retrieved November 18, 2024, from https://finance.yahoo.com/news/biotech-pioneer-debuts-collaborations-renowned-011700611.html
  48. Nithyaprakash, V., Niveathitha, S., & Shanmugapriya, V. (2020). Designer Activism strategies for sustainable leather product designs. Leather and Footwear Sustainability: Manufacturing, Supply Chain, and Product Level Issues, 57-89.
  49. Nutley, N.J. (2023, May 23). Modern Meadow unveils Bio-Vera™ as a breakthrough sustainable biomaterial poised to disrupt the leather industry. PR Newswire. Retrieved November 13, 2024, from https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/modern-meadow-unveils-bio-vera-as-a-breakthrough-sustainable-biomaterial-poised-to-disrupt-the-leather-industry-301831330.html
  50. O’Malley, M. 2009. “Making Knowledge in Synthetic Biology: Design Meets Kludge.” Biological Theory 4 (4) 378–389. https://doi.org/10.1162/BIOT_a_00006.
  51. Oh, W. Y., Chang, Y. K., Park, J. H., & Han, S. (2021). Toward a sustainable paradigm: Circular economy solutions in the fashion industry. In Research handbook of innovation for a circular economy (pp. 47-58). Edward Elgar Publishing.
  52. Oxman. (n.d.). O° project. Retrieved November 18, 2024, from https://oxman.com/projects/o0
  53. Pariti, S. R. K., Sharma, U., Jawale, L., & Pariti, S. (2024). Sustainability aspects, LCA and ecolabels. In Sustainable Innovations in the Textile Industry (pp. 541-566). Woodhead Publishing.
  54. Peters, A. (2023). These textiles were grown by bacteria. IMPACT. Modern Synthesis has developed a way to create textiles from a microbe. retrieved November 13 2024 from https://www.fastcompany.com/these-textiles-were-grown-by-bacteria
  55. Peters, A. (2023). Werewool dyes clothes with biotech coral proteins. Fast Company. Retrieved November 21, 2024, from https://www.fastcompany.com/90896708/werewool-dyes-clothes-with-biotech-coral-proteins
  56. PR Newswire. (2024). Modern Meadow and Earthletica announce world's first sustainable collaboration on Bronte jacket made with Bio-Alloy™ Shield technology [Press release]. Retrieved November 16, 2024, from https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/modern-meadow-and-earthletica-announce-worlds-first-sustainable-collaboration-on-bronte-jacket-made-with-bio-alloy-shield-technology-302172579.html
  57. Raru, A., Irovan, M., & Budeanu, R. (2023). Biomaterials for the fashion industry. Annals of the University of Oradea, Fascicle of textiles, leatherwork, 2, 95-98.
  58. Rathinamoorthy, R., Sharmila Bharathi, T., Snehaa, M., & Swetha, C. (2023). Mycelium as sustainable textile material–review on recent research and future prospective. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 35(3), 454-476.
  59. Redford, K.H., Brooks, T.M., Macfarlane, N.B.W. and Adams, J.S. (eds.) (2019). Genetic frontiers for conservation: An assessment of synthetic biology and biodiversity conservation. Technical assessment. Gland, Switzerland: IUCN.
  60. Rouse, J. G., & Van Dyke, M. E. (2010). A review of keratin-based biomaterials for biomedical applications. Materials, 3(2), 999-1014.
  61. Saunders, S. (2024). OXMAN’s 3D printed zero-waste biodegradable O° shoes produce no microplastics. 3DPrint.com. Retrieved November 18, 2024, from https://3dprint.com/314426/oxmans-3d-printed-zero-waste-biodegradable-o-shoes-produce-no-microplastics/
  62. Tachibana, Y., Darbe, S., Hayashi, S., Kudasheva, A., Misawa, H., Shibata, Y., & Kasuya, K. I. (2021). Environmental biodegradability of recombinant structural protein. Scientific Reports, 11(1), 242.
  63. Textile Exchange. (2022). The sustainability of biosynthetics: How biosynthetics can be part of the fashion and textile industry's journey towards a regenerative and circular future. Textile Exchange. [Online]. Available at: https://textileexchange.org/app/uploads/2022/05/Textile-Exchange_The-Sustainability-of-Biosynthetics.pdf
  64. Textile Technology (2022). $4.1 million raised to grow textiles. Retrieved November 11, 2024, from https://www.textiletechnology.net/technology/news/modern-synthesis--4.1-million-raised-to-grow-textiles-32505,
  65. Vandelook, S., Elsacker, E., Van Wylick, A., Laret De L., Peeters, E. Current state and future prospects of pure mycelium materials. Fungal Biol Biotechnol 8, 20 (2021). https://doi.org/10.1186/s40694-021-00128-1
  66. Werewool. (n.d.). Innovative fibers inspired by nature. Retrieved November 19, 2024, from https://www.werewool.bio/
  67. Williams, E. (2022). Appalling or advantageous? Exploring the impacts of fast fashion from environmental, social, and economic perspectives. Journal for Global Business and Community, 13(1).
  68. Yadav, S., Xu, Y., & Hergeth, H. (2024). Walking the Talk: Unraveling the Influence of the Sustainability Features of Leather Alternatives on Consumer Behavior toward Running Shoes. Sustainability, 16(2), 830.
  69. Zhao, M., Zhou, Y., Meng, J., Zheng, H., Cai, Y., Shan, Y., Guan, D., & Yang, Z. (2021). Virtual carbon and water flows embodied in global fashion trade: A case study of denim products. Journal of Cleaner Production, 303, 127071–127080. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2021.127080