No. SI1 (2025): Special Issue
Essays

Next-gen fur design: Prioritising material properties

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  • Isabella Enrica Alevato Aires,
  • Stefan Lie
Isabella Enrica Alevato Aires
University of Technology, Sydney
Stefan Lie
University of Technology, Sydney
DOI: https://doi.org/10.36253/fh-3128

Published 14-07-2025

Keywords

  • next-gen textiles,
  • textile production,
  • material design,
  • design research,
  • circular economy

How to Cite

Alevato Aires, I. E., & Lie, S. (2025). Next-gen fur design: Prioritising material properties. Fashion Highlight, (SI1), 474–486. https://doi.org/10.36253/fh-3128

Copyright (c) 2025 Isabella Enrica Alevato Aires, Stefan Lie

Creative Commons License

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

Abstract

Fur, valued for its various natural qualities, has historically been a staple in fashion, often signifying status. However, traditional animal-based fur is a controversial material increasingly subject to governmental and organisational bans. Alternatives include synthetic and next-gen materials. Although synthetic fur is more sustainable than animal fur regarding carbon footprint and animal welfare, it still contributes significantly to environmental issues, including microplastic pollution. Next-gen furs are animal- and petrochemical-free alternatives. However, their success is challenging to compare with synthetics due to their natural properties and the substantial time and financial investments already made in the latter. Based on traditional secondary research employing a ‘capture-edit-search’ approach, this investigation explores the potential of defining material properties to be prioritised or avoided when designing a next-gen fur. Starting from an analysis of the traditional material’s properties, the attributes commonly associated with animal-based fur are explored to help formulate strategies to consider when designing next-gen alternatives. As demonstrated, it is unlikely that a next-gen replacement for animal fur will fully replicate the material’s characteristics. However, in a design-driven transition, knowing what to avoid is as important as knowing what to achieve. Therefore, establishing honest design priorities could contribute to a more prosperous fashion future.

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