Beyond Domesticity: Revaluing Gendered Textile Arts in the Context of Relational Prosperity : Maria Lai and the Relational Value of Textile Crafts in Fashion

Abstract

This paper explores the historical undervaluation of textile crafts within Western societies, particularly concerning their strong associations with female labor. Despite their rich cultural and social significance, textile arts have often been relegated to the margins of artistic and economic discourse, overshadowed by forms of expression deemed more "legitimate" or valuable (Nochlin, 1971). This research aims to challenge these perceptions by highlighting the inherent value of textile crafts and their role in shaping a more relational and ethically grounded concept of prosperity in fashion.

The study begins by examining how gender biases have contributed to the marginalization of textile arts. Traditionally viewed as "women's work," these crafts have been undervalued both economically and culturally, resulting in a limited appreciation of their significance By analyzing the social and political dimensions of textile art, particularly through the practice of knitting groups and other communal activities, the paper argues that these crafts are vital forms of relational art (Newmeyer, 2008). They foster community, sustain cultural traditions, and serve as powerful tools for social connection and political expression

The practice of textile arts, particularly when understood as relational art, exemplifies the new conception of prosperity, offering a model for a fashion industry that prioritizes the common good over purely commercial interests.

The relational aspect of textile crafts exemplifies a form of prosperity that is not purely economic, but deeply rooted in social connections and community building. This reflects the idea of prosperity as a resource generated by a community, contributing to both economic and human value within ethical and environmental constraints.

A case study of Italian textile artist Maria Lai is presented to illustrate how textile arts can contribute to this reimagined prosperity in fashion and impact the relationships with the urban space). Lai’s work, deeply rooted in her community and personal narrative, demonstrates the potential of textile crafts to transcend their marginalized status and become central to a more inclusive and ethical understanding of fashion. Her art reflects a vision of prosperity that values cultural heritage, communal ties, and sustainable practices, providing a compelling example of how textile crafts can shape the future of fashion. Ultimately, this paper advocates for a reevaluation of textile material culture within the fashion industry, urging a shift towards a prosperity that is relational, ethical, and sustainable.