No. 3 (2024)
Essays

Economy of the ephemeral : Bloom and decay in time-centric consumerism

Karmen Samson
Independent Scholar

Published 30-06-2024

Keywords

  • bloom and decay,
  • cyclical patterns,
  • planned obsolescence,
  • consumer behavior,
  • deconstruction

How to Cite

Samson, K. (2024). Economy of the ephemeral : Bloom and decay in time-centric consumerism. Fashion Highlight, (3), 142–149. https://doi.org/10.36253/fh-2602

Abstract

This paper explores fashion as the ’Economy of the Ephemeral’, focusing on the cyclical and impermanent aspects of fashion through the scope of consumerism. Chapter I, ‘Bloom,’ analyses the historical roots of fashion’s seasonal system and its evolution into a rapid, ever-changing matter. It delves into the profound impact of technological advancements and production innovations, which have not only accelerated fashion’s cycles but have also fostered a disconnection from the natural rhythm of seasons, profoundly altering the ecological landscape. Chapter II, ‘Decay,’ focuses on the Maison Martin Margiela 9/4/1615 exhibition, held at the Boijmans van Beuningen as a case study for the impairment of fashion matter. The exhibition presents a time-based narrative that explores the interactions between living organisms, materials, and the museum environment. This paper offers a comprehensive exploration of the interplay between time, consumerism, and the impermanence of fashion. Therewith it encourages a deeper understanding of the cyclical patterns that extend beyond the traditional notions of bloom, and aid in encompassing the significance of decay.

References

  1. Aspers, P., & Godart, F. (2013). Sociology of Fashion: Order and change. Annual Review of Sociology, 39(1), 171–192. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev-soc-071811-145526
  2. Bennett, J. (2010). Vibrant matter: A Political Ecology of Things. Duke University Press Books.
  3. Bolton, A., Reeder, J. G., Regan, J., Garfinkel, A., Martin, T., & Cunningham, M. (2020). About time: Fashion and Duration. Metropolitan Museum of Art.
  4. Deleuze, G., & Guattari, F. (1988). A thousand plateaus: Capitalism and Schizophrenia. Bloomsbury Publishing.
  5. Duits, Thimo te., & Koenig, R. (1997). La Maison Martin Margiela: (9/4/1615).
  6. Escobar, A. (2018). Designs for the pluriverse: Radical Interdependence, Autonomy, and the Making of Worlds. Duke University Press.
  7. Evans, C. (1998). The Golden Dustman: A critical evaluation of the work of Martin Margiela and a review of Martin Margiela: Exhibition (9/4/1615). Fashion Theory, 2(1), 73–93. https://doi.org/10.2752/136270498779754470
  8. Evans, C., & Vaccari, A. (2020). Time in fashion: Industrial, Antilinear and Uchronic Temporalities.
  9. Gill, A. (1998). Deconstruction fashion: the making of unfinished, decomposing, and re-assembled clothes. Fashion Theory, 2(1), 25–49. https://doi.org/10.2752/136270498779754489
  10. Haraway, D. J. (2016). Staying with the Trouble: Making Kin in the Chthulucene. Duke University Press.
  11. Lehmann, U. (2000b). Tigersprung: Fashion in Modernity. MIT Press.
  12. Nowotny, H., & Plaice, N. (1995). Time: the modern and postmodern experience. Contemporary Sociology, 24(5), 684. https://doi.org/10.2307/2077402
  13. Packard, V. (1960). The waste makers. https://soilandhealth.org/wp-content/uploads/0303critic/030320wastemakers/wastemakers.pdf
  14. Rocamora, A., & Smelik, A. (2015). Thinking through fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists. Bloomsbury Publishing
  15. Sab, S., Dhruva, S. S., Paulsen, J., Sidhu, R., Amsterdam, E. A., & Venugopal, S. (n.d.). Here Today, Gone Tomorrow. The American Journal of Medicine, 128(12), e7–e9. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.amjmed.2015.07.039
  16. Svendsen, L. (2006). Fashion: A Philosophy. Reaktion Books.
  17. Wilson, E. (2003). Adorned in dreams: Fashion and Modernity. Rutgers University Press.