Published 31-12-2024
Keywords
- fiber,
- fibershed,
- localism,
- policy
How to Cite
Copyright (c) 2025 Paige Tomfohrde, Jaleesa Reed

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Abstract
In less than 100 years, the fashion and textile industry has transformed from local to global supply chains. Today, the industry is dominated by synthetic fiber production which produces garments that contribute to a variety of environmental and social issues such as microplastic pollution, increased carbon emissions, and abundant waste. In recent years, a response led by Fibershed has emerged which embraces a return to local fiber systems with a sincere focus on sustainable practices. Using qualitative thematic analysis, this study evaluates Fibershed’s approach to establishing regional fiber networks and offers possibilities for future expansion of Fibershed’s practices through policy and the inclusion of Indigenous and Black American knowledge and experience in order to create a more sustainable fashion future.
References
- Allwood, J. (2021, November 16). Technology will not solve the problem of climate change. Financial Times.
- Aminetzah, D., Brennan, J., Davis, W., Idoniboye, B., Noel, N., Pawlowski, J., & Stewart, S. (2021, November). Black farmers in the US: The opportunity for addressing racial disparities in farming. McKinsey & Company. https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/agriculture/our-insights/black-farmers-in-the-us-the-opportunity-for-addressing-racial-disparities-in-farming
- An Act to establish fashion sustainability and social accountability in the commonwealth, H.420. Massachusetts 193rd Congress (2023).https://malegislature.gov/Bills/193/H420
- An Act Relating to the environmental impacts of fashion,S.B. 5965. Washington 68th Legislature (2024). https://lawfilesext.leg.wa.gov/biennium/2023-24/Pdf/Bills/Senate%20Bills/5965.pdf
- A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning fashion’s future. (2017). Ellen MacArthur Foundation. https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/a-new-textiles-economy
- Brett, M. (2024). Rewiring local economies: Community wealth building for a just transition. Future Economy Scotland. https://www.futureeconomy.scot/publications/63-rewiring-local-economies-community-wealth-building-for-a-just-transition
- Fashion and the circular economy- deep dive. (n.d.). Ellen MacArthur Foundation. https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/fashion-and-the-circular-economy-deep-dive
- Berkey, R. E. (2017). Environmental Justice and Farm Labor. Taylor & Francis.
- Boucher, J., & Friot, D. (2017). Primary microplastics in the oceans: A global evaluation of sources. IUCN International Union for Conservation of Nature. https://doi.org/10.2305/IUCN.CH.2017.01.en
- Borst, E. (2024, June 28). Dems launch caucus on fashion’s climate, waste impacts. E&E News by Politico. https://www.eenews.net/articles/dems-launch-caucus-on-fashions-climate-waste-impacts/
- Burgess, R., & White, C. (2019). Fibershed: Growing a Movement of Farmers, Fashion Activists, and Makers for a New Textile Economy. Chelsea Green Publishing.
- Climate Corporate Data Accountability Act, SB-253, California Senate (2023). https://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/faces/billNavClient.xhtml?bill_id=202320240SB253
- During New York Fashion Week, Governor Hochul Announces Consortium of Universities, Businesses, and Industry Leaders to Manage New York’s Fashion Innovation Center. (2023, September 13). Governor Kathy Hochul. https://www.governor.ny.gov/news/during-new-york-fashion-week-governor-hochul-announces-consortium-universities-businesses-and
- Employment: garment manufacturing, SB-62, California Senate (2021). https://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/faces/billTextClient.xhtml?bill_id=202120220SB62
- European Commission. (n.d.). How is the EU making fashion sustainable? Retrieved September 20, 2024, from https://environment.ec.europa.eu/topics/circular-economy/reset-trend/how-eu-making-fashion-sustainable_en
- FABRIC Act, S.4213, 117th Congress (2022). https://www.congress.gov/bill/117th-congress/senate-bill/4213
- Fashion Environmental Accountability Act. S4746A, New York Senate (2023). https://legislation.nysenate.gov/pdf/bills/2023/S4746A
- Ferreira, A. C. de B., Borin, A. L. D. C., Lamas, F. M., Bogiani, J. C., Silva, M. A. S. da, Silva Filho, J. L. da, & Staut, L. A. (2019). Soil carbon accumulation in cotton production systems in the Brazilian Cerrado. Acta Scientiarum. Agronomy, 42, e43039. https://doi.org/10.4025/actasciagron.v42i1.43039
- Fibershed (2023). 2023 Fibershed Carbon Farm Report. https://fibershed.org/carbon-farm-report/
- Fibershed (n.d.). The Regional Fiber Manufacturing Initiative. Retrieved December 10, 2022, from https://fibershed.org/programs/regional-textile-economies/the-regional-fiber-manufacturing-initiative/
- Handley, S. (1999). Nylon: The story of a fashion revolution: a celebration of design from art silk to nylon and thinking fibres. Johns Hopkins University Press.
- Leslie, H. A., van Velzen, M. J. M., Brandsma, S. H., Vethaak, A. D., Garcia-Vallejo, J. J., & Lamoree, M. H. (2022). Discovery and quantification of plastic particle pollution in human blood. Environment International, 163, 107199. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envint.2022.107199
- Liboiron, M. (2021). Pollution is colonialism. Duke University Press.
- Moscona, J., & Sastry, K. (2021). Inappropriate Technology: Evidence from Global Agriculture. SSRN Electronic Journal. https://doi.org/10.2139/ssrn.3886019
- New York State Grown & Certified (n.d.) Animal & Plant Fiber. https://certified.ny.gov/animal-plant-fiber
- Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T., & Gwilt, A. (2020). The environmental price of fast fashion. Nature Reviews Earth & Environment, 1(4), 189–200. https://doi.org/10.1038/s43017-020-0039-9
- NY Textile Lab (n.d.). Survey Results. (n.d.). Retrieved December 11, 2022, from https://www.newyorktextilelab.com/survey-results
- Oh, H., & Suh, M. W. (2003). What is happening to the US textile industry? Reflections on NAFTA and US corporate strategies. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 7(2), 119–137. https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020310475456
- Ontl, T. A., & Schulte, L. A. (2012). Soil Carbon Storage. Nature Education Knowledge, 3(10). https://www.nature.com/scitable/knowledge/library/soil-carbon-storage-84223790/
- Reid, D. A. (2003). African Americans and Land Loss in Texas: Government Duplicity and Discrimination Based on Race and Class. Agricultural History, 77(2), 258–292.
- Remy, N., Speelman, E., & Swartz, S. (2016). Style that’s sustainable: A new fast-fashion formula. McKinsey Sustainability. https://www.mckinsey.com/capabilities/sustainability/our-insights/style-thats-sustainable-a-new-fast-fashion-formula.
- Rivard, P. E. (2002). A new order of things: How the textile industry transformed New England. Univ. Press of New England.
- Robinson, N., & LaMore, R. (2010). Why Buy Local? An Assessment of the Economic Advantages of Shopping at Locally Owned Businesses. Michigan State University Center for Community and Economic Development. https://ced.msu.edu/upload/reports/why%20buy%20local.pdf
- Schlossberg, T. (2019). Inconspicuous consumption: The environmental impact you don’t know you have (First edition). Grand Central Publishing.
- Trejo, H. (2014). Exploring The New York Slow Fashion Value Chain: Local Animals, Fibers, And Knitwear. https://ecommons.cornell.edu/handle/1813/38988
- Trejo, H., & Lewis, T. (2017). Slow Fashion and Fiber Farming: Nexus for Community Engagement. Fashion Practice, 9(1), 120–142. https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2016.1220544
- Tyler, S., & Moore, E. (2013). Plight of Black Farmers in the Context of USDA Farm Loan Programs: A Research Agenda for the Future. Professional Agricultural Workers Journal, 1(1). https://tuspubs.tuskegee.edu/pawj/vol1/iss1/6
- United States Census Bureau (2020). Decennial Census.
- United States Department of Agriculture (2024a). 2022 Census of Agriculture.
- United States Department of Agriculture. (2024b). What They are Saying: Leaders Across the Country Praise Biden-Harris Administration Actions to Provide Financial Assistance to Farmers Who Experienced Discrimination [Press Release]. https://www.usda.gov/media/press-releases/2024/08/01/what-they-are-saying-leaders-across-country-praise-biden-harris
- Warsaw, P., Archambault, S., He, A., & Miller, S. (2021). The Economic, Social, and Environmental Impacts of Farmers Markets: Recent Evidence from the US. Sustainability, 13(6), 3423. https://doi.org/10.3390/su13063423
- World Apparel Fiber Consumption Survey. (2013). Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations and International Cotton Advisory Committee.
- Yang, L., Zhang, Y., Kang, S., Wang, Z., & Wu, C. (2021). Microplastics in soil: A review on methods, occurrence, sources, and potential risk. Science of The Total Environment, 780, 146546. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scitotenv.2021.146546