Weaving Nature: The flow of Ainu elm bark fibres through Hokkaido's ecosystems

Abstract

Japan’s Indigenous Peoples, the Ainu, inhabitants of Hokkaidō island, are renowned for their robes made from ‘exchanges’ with botanical species, such as elm bark fibres. Their God-spirits (kamui) manifesting in flora, fauna, and natural forces, guided their respectful use of materials, ensuring that nothing was wasted. Their spiritual practices, in reverence for nature, contrast with today’s destructive driven fashions.
Textiles are often overlooked in the ecological humanities. This paper, through a framework rooted in decolonial and Indigenous studies, environmental history, cultural anthropology and regenerative design, explores the ecological entanglements of human-nature coexistence, materiality and agency of elm bark fibre garments, weaving together their narratives, practices and environments.
The study highlights the ingenuity and sophisticated technologies that allow the transformation of plant fibres into durable garments essential in northern climates. It explores the Indigenous perceptions of nature and resource extraction, particularly during the pre-colonial and early colonial periods in Hokkaidō.
By exploring Ainu textile traditions, this paper highlights the potential of Indigenous knowledge to inform sustainable fashion practices. However, applying this learning must avoid perpetuating the colonial legacy of exploitation. Instead, efforts should prioritise equitable partnerships that respect and protect Indigenous contributions, while guiding a move away from petroleum-based systems.