No. SI1 (2025): Special Issue
Essays

Artistic connections: Re-framing printed textile design processes for fashion based on the Chintz

Danielle Kremer
University of Technology, Sydney

Published 14-07-2025

Keywords

  • Fashion and Textiles,
  • Textile design,
  • Chintz,
  • Print,
  • Motif

How to Cite

Kremer, D. (2025). Artistic connections: Re-framing printed textile design processes for fashion based on the Chintz. Fashion Highlight, (SI1), 266–274. https://doi.org/10.36253/fh-3314

Abstract

In an era dominated by tidal waves of visual stimuli across various digital platforms, we find ourselves scrolling and swiping incessantly. Images flicker momentarily before disappearing, stored away in unseen databases. When we consider imagery related to fashion, particularly printed textiles, we observe that these pieces also showcase a multitude of visuals but, unlike their digital counterparts, printed textiles are permanently situated within a specific time and place. This permanence highlights a stark contrast with the rising tide of fashion waste, revealing the fleeting nature of our throwaway culture. Print lies at the core of the waste crisis in today's fashion landscape. Alarming statistics surrounding fashion production and waste underscore the issue; printed garments are disposed of just as swiftly as digital images are scrolled into oblivion. Wearing printed art is both majestic and powerful, yet contemporary fashion seems to be out of sync with this value. 

This research delves into the illustrious chintz, a motif that has maintained its appeal over centuries and has been cherished in the realm of fashion. An exploration of this motif and its applications on fabric reveals concepts of artistry, upcycling and the appreciation of printed pieces as heirlooms. This paper draws on historical lessons that could inform our modern approach to print design in fashion today, creating a bridge between textile artistry and fashion design while fostering deeper connections with garments through interaction with established print techniques.

References

  1. Beer, A. B. (1970). Trade goods: A study of Indian chintz in the collection of the Cooper-Hewitt Museum of decorative arts and design, Smithsonian institution.
  2. Crill, R. (2008). chintz: Indian textiles for the west. Victoria & Albert Museum.
  3. Crill, R. (2020). A Revolution in the Bedroom chintz Interiors in the West. In Museum, R. O., & Fee, S, Cloth that changed the world: The art and fashion of Indian chintz ( pp. 106-135). Other Distribution.
  4. Greyrock, E. (2021, November 18). What would fashion be without art? ~ A conversation with Rithika merchant. Medium. https://elenagreyrock.medium.com/what-would-fashion-be-without-art-a-conversation-with-rithika-merchant-b0ab7e03b9a9
  5. Fee, S (2020). The Flowering Family Tree of Indian chintz. In Museum, R. O., & Fee, S, Cloth that changed the world: The art and fashion of Indian chintz ( pp. 125–132). Other Distribution.
  6. Fee S. (2020, March 13). The global craze for cotton and colour. Royal Ontario Museum (ROM) | Royal Ontario Museum. https://www.rom.on.ca/media-centre/magazine/global-craze-cotton-and-colour
  7. Fletcher, K. (2013). Sustainable fashion and textiles: Design journeys. Routledge.
  8. Fletcher, K. and Tham, M. (2019). Earth Logic Fashion Action Research Plan. London: The J J Charitable Trust.
  9. Fotheringham, A. (2015, October 9). Guest post: Renuka Reddy's adventures in chintz • V&A blog. V&A Blog. https://www.vam.ac.uk/blog/fabric-of-india/guest-post-renuka-reddys-adventures-in-chintz?srsltid=AfmBOoqQeeoDFIIZTFNaiFYU2ftSC9qc2c8v58bs3yHMpW8aQw93tfV
  10. Gablik, S. (1992). The Re enchantment of art. Thames & Hudson.
  11. Geijer, A. (1979). A history of textile art. Pasold Research Fund in association with Sotheby Parke Bernet.
  12. Hartkamp-Jonxis, E. (2023). When Indian flowers bloomed in Europe: Masterworks of Indian trade textiles, 1600-1780, in the TAPI collection.
  13. Igini, M. (2023, August 21). 10 concerning fast fashion waste statistics. Earth.Org. https://earth.org/statistics-about-fast-fashion-waste/
  14. Irwin, J., Brett, K. B., Museum, V. A., & Museum, R. O. (1970). Origins of chintz: With a catalogue of Indo-European cotton-paintings in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, and the royal Ontario Museum, Toronto.
  15. Jung, C. G. (1998). Jung on mythology. Princeton University Press.
  16. Lemire, B. (2003). Domesticating the exotic: floral culture and the East India calico trade with England, c. 1600-1800. Textile : The Journal of Cloth and Culture, 1(1), 65–86.
  17. McNeil, P., & Riello, G. (2016). Luxury : a rich history. Oxford University Press.
  18. Metsger, D (2020). The Flowers of Indo-European chintz. In Museum, R. O., & Fee, S, Cloth that changed the world: The art and fashion of Indian chintz ( pp. 150-157). Other Distribution.
  19. Museum, R. O., & Fee, S. (2020). Cloth that changed the world: The art and fashion of Indian chintz. Other Distribution.
  20. Raveux, O. (2014). Fashion and Consumption of Painted and Printed Calicoes in the Mediterranean during the later Seventeenth Century: The Case of chintz Quilts and Banyans in Marseilles. Textile History, 45(1), 49–67. https://doi.org/10.1179/0040496914Z.00000000037
  21. Reddy, R (2020). In Praise of Cottons. In Museum, R. O., & Fee, S, Cloth that changed the world: The art and fashion of Indian chintz ( pp. 25-31). Other Distribution.
  22. Reddy R. (n.d.). :: ReDTree ::. :: reDTree ::. https://www.redtreetextilestudio.com/about.htm
  23. Riello, G. (2013). Cotton: The Fabric that Made the Modern World (Paperback edition.). Cambridge University Press. https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511706097
  24. Riello, G (2020). How chintz Changed the World. In Museum, R. O., & Fee, S, Cloth that changed the world: The art and fashion of Indian chintz ( pp. 192-201). Other Distribution.
  25. Rissanen, T., & McQuillan, H. (2020). Zero waste fashion design. Bloomsbury Publishing.
  26. The Flowers We Grew. (2025, January). https://www.dior.com. https://www.dior.com/en_au/fashion/womens-fashion/haute-couture-shows/the-flowers-we-grew
  27. Tischleder, B., & Wasserman, S. (2015). Cultures of Obsolescence: History, Materiality, and the Digital Age (1st ed. 2015.). Palgrave Macmillan. https://doi.org/10.1057/9781137463647
  28. Von Busch, O.. (2018). Vital Vogue: A biosocial perspective on fashion. Selfpassage.
  29. Wang, D., & Ilhan, A. O. (2009). Holding Creativity Together: A Sociological Theory of the Design Professions. Design Issues, 25(1), 5–21. https://doi.org/10.1162/desi.2009.25.1.5
  30. Wood, J. (2017). Design for micro-utopias: Making the unthinkable possible. Routledge.