The Lexicon of Su**********ty: Faux, Eco, Vegan, Bio Leather

Abstract

This Fashion Lexigraphy interrogates the linguistic and cultural dimensions of sustainability in the Italian fashion industry, focusing on how terms such as ‘faux’, ‘eco’, ‘vegan’, and ‘bio leather’ shape material narratives. While sustainability was once a revolutionary concept, its overuse has diluted its meaning, often serving as a vague moral signifier rather than a precise descriptor. The legal framework in Italy, which restricts terms like eco leather to animal-derived materials while permitting ‘faux leather’ as a more transparent term, illustrates how language is both regulated and contested. As consumer interest shifts toward using non-animal materials, linguistic clarity becomes crucial for distinguishing between the various types of leather alternatives. Beyond technical innovation, the cultural legitimacy of new materials depends on their ability to develop distinct identities rather than relying on conventional leather as a reference point. Industry discourse, legal terminology, and marketing practices collectively influence how these materials are perceived, normalized, and regulated. By analyzing their genealogies and rhetorical uses, this Lexigraphy highlights the performative power of language in shaping the sustainable transition and argues for more precise fashion lexigraphy as a tool to foster transparency, trust, and cultural adoption.