Published 09-03-2026
Keywords
- Italian fashion system,
- Fashion transformation,
- Circular practices,
- Phygital fashion,
- Informal education
How to Cite
Copyright (c) 2026 Andrea Quartu, Paolo Franzo, Elisabetta Cianfanelli

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Abstract
This article examines the ongoing transformations within the Italian fashion system through the findings of the national research project ResHaping made in ITAly (RHITA), focusing in particular on the activities of the University of Florence Research Unit in Milestone 3 (M3). It interrogates the contemporary conditions under which Made in Italy can be reproduced and reformulated. Drawing on a critical review of the literature and a qualitative methodological design based on case studies, the research identifies three emerging transformative trajectories: circular systems, phygital scenarios, and informal education. The analysis shows that these trajectories do not operate additively, but rather through a relationship of co-determination: circularity requires informational infrastructures that make materials traceable and regenerable; the phygital dimension stabilizes and mediates such information through digital devices; and informal education enables its operational translation and the transmission of the skills necessary for their practical implementation. Through six case studies selected across production, services, and training, the article highlights the tensions among standardization, material variability, and situated knowledges that characterize contemporary Made in Italy. The contribution advances a systemic reading of the transformation of the Italian fashion sector, interpreting Made in Italy as a dynamic device in which material, information, and learning are continuously negotiated.
References
- Abram, M. D., Swift, H. J., & DeBarros, J. (2020). Methods to integrate natural language processing into qualitative research. International Journal of Qualitative Methods, 19, 1–14. https://doi.org/10.1177/1609406920984608
- Barbero, S., & Ferrulli, E. (2023). Transizione ecologica e digitale: Il design sistemico nei processi di innovazione aperta delle PMI / Ecological and digital transition: Systemic design in SMEs open innovation processes. Agathón | International Journal of Architecture, Art and Design, 13, 269–280. https:// doi.org/10.19229/2464-9309/13232023
- Barucco, M. A., Bulegato, F., & Vaccari, A. (2020). Remanufacturing Italy: L’Italia nell’epoca della postproduzione. Mimesis Edizioni.
- Becattini, G. (1979). Dal ‘settore’ industriale al ‘distretto’ industriale: Alcune considerazioni sull’unità di indagine dell’economia industriale. Rivista di Economia e Politica Industriale, 5(1), 7–21.
- Bertola, P., & Teunissen, J. (2018). Fashion 4.0: Innovating fashion industry through digital transformation. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 22(4), 352–369. https://doi. org/10.1108/RJTA-03-2018-0023
- Bottani, E., Correale, S., Rizzi, A., Stefanini, R., & Vezzani, L. (2023). How RFID technology enables the supply chain and retail 4.0: A survey with Italian stakeholders. International Journal of RF Technologies, 14(3), 1–26. https://doi. org/10.3233/RFT-230062
- Bowen, G. A. (2009). Document analysis as a qualitative research method. Qualitative Research Journal, 9(2), 27–40. https://doi.org/10.3316/QRJ0902027Carini, L., Mazzucotelli Salice, S., & Cornaggia, C. (2025). Prosperity in Italian fashion: Networks of care. How micro and small enterprises redefine the relation between the economic and the social. Fashion Highlight, (SI1), 562–572. https://doi.org/10.36253/ fh-3166
- Casciani, D. (2023). Fashion and modular design: Modularity as a design strategy for sustainability. Agathón | International Journal of Architecture, Art and Design, 14, 326–337. https://doi.org/10.19229/2464-9309/14282023
- Casciani, D., Chkanikova, O., & Pal, R. (2022). Exploring the nature of digital transformation in the fashion industry: Opportunities for supply chains, business models, and sustainability-oriented innovations. Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy, 18(1), 773–795. https://doi.org/10.1080/15 487733.2022.2125640
- Choi, Y. H., Yoon, S., Xuan, B., et al. (2021). Fashion informatics of the Big 4 fashion weeks using topic modeling and sentiment analysis. Fashion and Textiles, 8, 1–27. https:// doi.org/10.1186/s40691-021-00265-6
- Cianfanelli, E. (2025). Towards a new sustainable and relational paradigm for the fashion system. Fashion Highlight, (SI1), 18–20. https://doi.org/10.36253/fh-3559
- Cohen, W. M., & Levinthal, D. A. (1990). Absorptive capacity: A new perspective on learning and innovation. Administrative Science Quarterly, 35(1), 128–152. https://doi. org/10.2307/2393553
- Dellapiana, E. (2022). Il design e l’invenzione del Made in Italy. Einaudi.
- Denaro, G. (2023). A new manufacturing fashion system: Introducing 4.0 into manufacturing processes. Fashion Highlight, (1), 58–65. https://doi.org/10.36253/fh-2262
- D’Itria, E., & Colombi, C. (2024). Consuming fashion: Planning long life cycle of continuing products. Fashion Highlight, (3), 26–35. https://doi.org/10.36253/fh-2673
- Faiferri, M., Bartocci, S., & Pusceddu, F. (2017). Spazi urbani d’apprendimento. In R. Galdini & A. Marata (Eds.), La città creativa: Spazi pubblici e luoghi della quotidianità (pp. 205–213).
- Falagas, M. E., Pitsouni, E. I., Malietzis, G. A., & Pappas, G. (2008). Comparison of PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science, and Google Scholar: Strengths and weaknesses. The FASEB
- Journal, 22(2), 338–342. https://doi.org/10.1096/fj.07-9492LSF Fletcher, K., & Tham, M. (2019). Earth logic: Fashion action
- research plan. JJ Charitable Trust.
- Foucault, M. (1969). L’archéologie du savoir. Gallimard.
- Franzo, P. (2022). Showing fashion production: Le nuove identità dei luoghi della manifattura in Italia. AND Rivista di Architetture, Città e Architetti, 42(2), 30–37
- Franzo, P., & Moradei, C. (2021). Imparare in provincia: Le fabbriche della moda come luoghi dell’apprendimento. Officina, 34, 96–99.
- Galletta, A. (2013). Mastering the semi-structured interview and beyond: From research design to analysis and publication. New York University Press. https://doi.org/10.18574/ nyu/9780814732939.001.0001
- Haddaway, N. R., Collins, A. M., Coughlin, D., & Kirk, S. (2015). The role of Google Scholar in evidence reviews and its applicability to grey literature searching. PLOS ONE, 10(9), 1–17. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0138237
- Hajahmadi, S., Calvi, I., Stacchiotti, E., Cascarano, P., & Marfia, G. (2024). Heritage elements and artificial intelligence as storytelling tools for virtual retail environments. Digital Applications in Archaeology and Cultural Heritage, 34, 1–14.
- Iannilli, V. M., & Spagnoli, A. (2021). Phygital retailing in fashion: Experiences, opportunities and innovation trajectories. ZoneModa Journal, 11(1), 43–69. https://doi. org/10.6092/issn.2611-0563/13120
- Kvale, S., & Brinkmann, S. (2015). InterViews: Learning the craft of qualitative research interviewing (3rd ed.). SAGE Publications.
- Lockamy, A., & McCormack, K. (2004). The development of a supply chain management process maturity model using the concepts of business process orientation. Supply Chain Management: An International Journal, 9(4), 272–278. https:// doi.org/10.1108/13598540410550019
- Luible, C., & Braumann, J. (2025). A new fashion design practice as enabler for a fashion system change. Fashion Highlight, (SI1), 96–106. https://doi.org/10.36253/fh-3115
- Lundvall, B.-Å., & Johnson, B. (1994). The learning economy. Industry and Innovation, 1(2), 23–42. https://doi. org/10.1080/13662719400000002
- Lupano, M., & Vaccari, A. (2014). Insegnare il design della moda. Aracne.
- Macanovic, A. (2022). Text mining for social science: The state and the future of computational text analysis in sociology. Social Science Research, 108, 1–17. https://doi. org/10.1016/j.ssresearch.2022.102784
- Merlo, E. (2003). Moda italiana: Storia di un’industria dall’Ottocento a oggi. Marsilio.
- Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T., & Gwilt, A. (2020). The environmental price of fast fashion. Nature Reviews Earth & Environment, 1(4), 189–200. https:// doi.org/10.1038/s43017-020-0039-9
- Paez, A. (2017). Gray literature: An important resource in systematic reviews. Journal of Evidence-Based Medicine, 10(3), 233–240. https://doi.org/10.1111/jebm.12266
- Paulicelli, E. (2015). Italian fashion: Yesterday, today and tomorrow. Journal of Modern Italian Studies, 20(1), 1–9. https://doi.org/10.1080/1354571X.2014.973150
- Petticrew, M., & Roberts, H. (2006). Systematic reviews in the social sciences: A practical guide. Blackwell Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1002/9780470754887
- Quartu, A. (2024). Made in AItaly: The identities of fashion design in the era of artificial intelligence. In M. Bisson
- (Ed.), Environmental design: 4th International Conference on Environmental Design, 9–11 May 2024 (pp. 627–631). Palermo University Press.
- Rinaldi, F. R., & Testa, S. (2014). The responsible fashion company: Integrating ethics and aesthetics in the value chain. Greenleaf Publishing.
- Sacco, P. L., & Tavano Blessi, G. (2005). Verso un nuovo modello di sviluppo sostenibile: Distretti culturali e aree urbane. Meridiana, 54, 187–209. https://doi. org/10.1400/78440
- Särmäkari, N., & Vänskä, A. (2022). “Just hit a button!”: Fashion 4.0 designers as cyborgs, experimenting and designing with generative algorithms. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 15(2), 211–220. https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2021.1991005
- Savi, L. (2023). A new history of “Made in Italy”: Fashion and textiles in post-war Italy. Bloomsbury Fashion Central.
- Smelik, A. (2021). A posthuman turn in fashion. In E. Paulicelli, V. Manlow, & E. Wissinger (Eds.), The Routledge companion to fashion studies (pp. 57–64). Routledge.
- Snyder, H. (2019). Literature review as a research methodology: An overview and guidelines. Journal of Business Research, 104, 333–339. https://doi.org/10.1016/j. jbusres.2019.07.039
- Stanfill, S. (2015). The glamour of Italian fashion since 1945. V&A Publishing.
- Tranfield, D., Denyer, D., & Smart, P. (2003). Towards
- a methodology for developing evidence-informed management knowledge by means of systematic review. British Journal of Management, 14(3), 207–222. https://doi. org/10.1111/1467-8551.00375
- Vergine, I., Brivio, E., Fabbri, T., Gaggioli, A., Leoni, G., & Galimberti, C. (2019). Introducing and implementing phygital and augmented reality at work. Studi Organizzativi, 21(2), 137–163.
- Vezzoli, C., Conti, G. M., Macrì, L., & Motta, M. (2022). Designing sustainable clothing systems: The design for environmentally sustainable textile clothes and its product- service systems. FrancoAngeli.
- Victoria and Albert Museum. (2014). The glamour of Italian fashion 1945–2014 [Press release]. https://www.vam.ac.uk/__ data/assets/pdf_file/0003/240546/The-Glamour-of-Italian- Fashion-press-release1.pdf [Accessed 3 February 2026].
- Wallin, R. (2025). Meaning before making: How digital tools might enable material and immaterial value for sustainable design. Fashion Highlight, (SI1), 108–118. https:// doi.org/10.36253/fh-3138
- White, N. (2000). Reconstructing Italian fashion: America and the development of the Italian fashion industry. Bloomsbury.
- Whitty, J. (2021). Fashion design for holistic systems. In
- S. S. Muthu & M. A. Gardetti (Eds.), Sustainable design in textiles and fashion (pp. 1–22). Springer Singapore. https://doi. org/10.1007/978-981-16-2466-7_1
